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How to Notch
Tubing by Budd Davisson
To determine the length and angle:
1. Lay the tube to be cut across the tubing to be bridged and make a
magic marker line on the tube that's right over the two tubes
centerlines.
2. Cut on the lines. That'll give the angles, but the tube will be a
little too long.
3. Cut the notches to line up the notches:
1. Lay the tube on your bench top and slide it a few inches any
direction so it leaves a scuff mark full length on the tube.
2. Take a magic marker and make a mark at each end of the scuff mark.
3. Using the sharp edge of a square edged grinding wheel cut a "V" at
the marks, then grind another "V" opposite that one. That sets the axis
of the cut.
4. Using your eyeball and the magic marker, extend the length mark
around the tube.
5. Grind the Vs down to the line on one end.
6. Slowly dress the radius into the tube to meet the tubing with minimal
gap.
7. Now go to work on the other end but slightly modify your original
line that indicated the length and angle to take into account the
changed length that occured when you notched the other end.
8. Index the tube on the other end with the already radiused notch where
it's supposed to be and look down on the uncut end where it crosses the
other tube. You'll be able to eyeball the depth of the notch within
1/16" and mark it. If it's a cluster with three pieces intersecting,
you'll be able to eyeball the cuts much more closely than you'd think
possible.
9. when grinding the radius on the final end, move slowly and it'll
eventually drop into position.
You'll be amazed how quickly you develop the ability to envision where
metal has to come off to make it fit. If gas welding, the gaps aren't
particularly critical, just try to keep them under .080 with .030-.040
being optimal. And don't worry about smoothing the edges any more than
just knocking burrs off. You're going to melt that edge anyway.
This entire process should take from 7 to as long as 10 minutes per end.
Plus it gives you the ability to fudge the length because you're working
down from too long to just right. Using a mechanical cutter means you
have to be dead nuts on the length or you're screwed.
Any kind of mechanical tooling is a total waste of time unless you're
going to be doing a production type of set up and then the hot set up is
an old power nibbler being guided by a fish mouthed piece of thicker
tubing clamped to the tubing. That's what all production houses used
until the CNC nibbler or laser came along.
Back to FAQ's
Riveting Tips and Tricks
1. When riveting flush rivets (AN426), run
a line of masking tape either side of the line of holes (on the gun
side) and you'll find that the gun doesn't wander around anywhere near
as much.
2. When riveting AN470 rivets put a piece
of masking tape over the machined head of the rivet. You will very
rarely miss another one or get another smiley.
3. When driving 3/32nd rivets use about
35-40PSI. The longer the rivet attachment the slightly higher the
pressure.
4. When driving 1/8th rivets use about
65-70PSI. Again, when you need to use a longer rivet attachment
increase the pressure slightly.
5. Try as best you can to drive the rivet
in one go rather than multiple goes. Hold the rivet gun and bucking
bar as square to the rivet as possible and just let the bucking bar do
the work. If your pressures are right you'll see the head forming
before your eyes and it will feel right. There's no other way to
describe it.
Back to FAQ's
Go Fast Tips
(from Dwayne Parkinson) The more
asterisks, the higher the priority
*****1)
Streamline the landing gear shock struts
*****2) Build
tear drop fairing inboard of the wheel pants that fair the inside axle
stub/gear leg intersections and brakes
**3) Fair
the intersection of the strut with the bottom of the wing
4) Internally mounted antennas
5) Flush
mounted Nav/Strobe lights in wing tips
6) Flush
screws instead of round on the doors windows and boot cowl
7) Flush
latch on oil door
****8) Make
sure area where air enters the engine compartment is as smooth as
possible by tightening up baffling, etc.
9) Make
sure area where air exits the engine is as smooth as possible
10) Make
sure the volume of cooling air going into the engine = the volume of
air exiting the engine
*11)
Flush mounted gas caps
12) Tail
wheel pant
***13)
Reflex flaps
14)
Reflex ailerons
15)
Flush mounted pop out tail lift handles similar to Cessna product
*16)
Streamline flying wires
*****17) Wheel
pants / Pressure recovery wheel pants like on an RV (I don't know what
that means)
18) Flush
camlocks on the engine cowl
19)
Aerodynamic or rear facing step peg rather than a round peg sticking
out from the landing gear (used to step into plane)
20)
Replace wing root vents with vents that can be opened or closed when
needed.
21)
Aerodynamic exhaust pipes angled back rather than sticking straight
out the bottom of the plane
**22) Tight
door and window seals
23) Gap
seals where appropriate
24) Light
prop optimized for cruise speed (or possibly ground adjustable)
25) Replace window catch on the bottom of the wing with lift gate type
shocks used in SUV's and mini-vans.
26) Use
small wheels
27) Wheel
hub covers
28) Flush
mounted door latches
*****29) BUILD
LIGHT (no insulation, few avionics, spartan interior, minimal primer
and paint, etc)
30) Find
the best weight/HP ratio for the engine
Back to FAQ's
Hardware parts list
(from AviPro QB list,
modified with vendors I have used to acquire parts)
|
Item |
Vendor |
Qty |
Part Number |
Comment |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Bearhawk Plans |
R & B Aircraft |
1 |
|
|
|
Brunton Flying Wires |
Private individual |
1 |
|
|
|
Wings |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Fuselage |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Main Tanks |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Aux Fuel Tanks |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Wing Struts w/fittings |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Wing Tips |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Firewall/boot cowl |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Cowling/nose bowl |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Flap return springs |
R & B Aircraft |
1 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
MISCELLANEOUS |
|
|
|
|
|
Freight from Avi Pro |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Wing crating |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
LANDING GEAR |
|
|
|
|
|
Heim rod ends for landing gear |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Landing gear |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Shock struts |
Avi Pro |
1 |
|
|
|
Landing gear O-rings and snap rings |
R & B Aircraft |
1 |
|
|
|
Shock strut springs (set) |
Scott Special Tools |
1 |
EH200-800 |
816-421-2444
|
|
Cleveland wheels and brakes kit |
|
1 |
199-62 |
|
|
Tires |
|
2 |
|
|
|
Axle nuts 1 1/2 x 16 |
|
2 |
MS21025-20 |
|
|
Cotter pins 2" |
B & B Aircraft |
4 |
MS24665-360 |
|
|
Axle shims 1 7/8" |
|
2 |
|
|
|
AN5 Bolts, nuts, washers for brakes |
|
|
MS21042 recommended |
Determined by brake type chosen |
|
Jam nuts for rod ends |
|
|
|
|
|
Filler plug 1/8"NPT shock strut |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
BRAKES |
|
|
|
|
|
Brake cylinders |
B & B Aircraft |
4 |
|
|
|
1/4" aluminum brake line |
|
16 |
|
|
|
AN fittings for 1/4" AL brake line |
|
|
|
|
|
flexible hi pressure hose |
|
|
|
|
|
fittings for hi pressure hose |
|
|
|
|
|
Adell clamps to secure hoses |
|
|
|
|
|
AN3 bolts/nuts for Adell clamps |
|
|
|
|
|
poly tube/fittings for supply side |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
PULLEYS - ailerons |
|
|
|
|
|
Pulley - on wing tube support |
B & B Aircraft |
2 |
MS24566-4B is 3.5” |
|
|
front spar pulleys |
|
2 |
MS 20220-2 |
|
|
fuselage side by wing strut |
|
2 |
MS24566-3B |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
PULLEYS - flaps |
&n | |