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The Unofficial Bearhawk FAQ

Technical Tips and Tricks

 

How to Notch Tubing by Budd Davisson

To determine the length and angle:
1. Lay the tube to be cut across the tubing to be bridged and make a magic marker line on the tube that's right over the two tubes centerlines.
2. Cut on the lines. That'll give the angles, but the tube will be a little too long.
3. Cut the notches to line up the notches:

1. Lay the tube on your bench top and slide it a few inches any direction so it leaves a scuff mark full length on the tube.
2. Take a magic marker and make a mark at each end of the scuff mark.
3. Using the sharp edge of a square edged grinding wheel cut a  "V" at the marks, then grind another "V" opposite that one. That sets the axis of the cut.
4. Using your eyeball and the magic marker, extend the length mark around the tube.
5. Grind the Vs down to the line on one end.
6. Slowly dress the radius into the tube to meet the tubing with minimal gap.
7. Now go to work on the other end but slightly modify your original line that indicated the length and angle to take into account the changed length that occured when you notched the other end.
8. Index the tube on the other end with the already radiused notch where it's supposed to be and look down on the uncut end where it crosses the other tube. You'll be able to eyeball the depth of the notch within 1/16" and mark it. If it's a cluster with three pieces intersecting, you'll be able to eyeball the cuts much more closely than you'd think possible.
9. when grinding the radius on the final end, move slowly and it'll eventually drop into position.

You'll be amazed how quickly you develop the ability to envision where metal has to come off to make it fit. If gas welding, the gaps aren't particularly critical, just try to keep them under .080 with .030-.040 being optimal. And don't worry about smoothing the edges any more than just knocking burrs off. You're going to melt that edge anyway.

This entire process should take from 7 to as long as 10 minutes per end. Plus it gives you the ability to fudge the length because you're working down from too long to just right. Using a mechanical cutter means you have to be dead nuts on the length or you're screwed.

Any kind of mechanical tooling is a total waste of time unless you're going to be doing a production type of set up and then the hot set up is an old power nibbler being guided by a fish mouthed piece of thicker tubing clamped to the tubing. That's what all production houses used until the CNC nibbler or laser came along.

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Riveting Tips and Tricks

 

1. When riveting flush rivets (AN426), run a line of masking tape either side of the line of holes (on the gun side) and you'll find that the gun doesn't wander around anywhere near as much.
2. When riveting AN470 rivets put a piece of masking tape over the machined head of the rivet. You will very rarely miss another one or get another smiley.
3. When driving 3/32nd rivets use about 35-40PSI. The longer the rivet attachment the slightly higher the pressure.
4. When driving 1/8th rivets use about 65-70PSI. Again, when you need to use a longer rivet attachment increase the pressure slightly.
5. Try as best you can to drive the rivet in one go rather than multiple goes. Hold the rivet gun and bucking bar as square to the rivet as possible and just let the bucking bar do the work. If your pressures are right you'll see the head forming before your eyes and it will feel right. There's no other way to describe it.

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Go Fast Tips (from Dwayne Parkinson) The more asterisks, the higher the priority

*****1) Streamline the landing gear shock struts

*****2) Build tear drop fairing inboard of the wheel pants that fair the inside axle stub/gear leg intersections and brakes
**3) Fair the intersection of the strut with the bottom of the wing
4) Internally mounted antennas
5) Flush mounted Nav/Strobe lights in wing tips
6) Flush screws instead of round on the doors windows and boot cowl
7) Flush latch on oil door
****8) Make sure area where air enters the engine compartment is as smooth as possible by tightening up baffling, etc.
9) Make sure area where air exits the engine is as smooth as possible
10)  Make sure the volume of cooling air going into the engine = the volume of air exiting the engine
*11)  Flush mounted gas caps
12)  Tail wheel pant 
***13)  Reflex flaps
14)  Reflex ailerons
15)  Flush mounted pop out tail lift handles similar to Cessna product
*16) Streamline flying wires
*****17) Wheel pants / Pressure recovery wheel pants like on an RV (I don't know what that means)
18) Flush camlocks on the engine cowl
19) Aerodynamic or rear facing step peg rather than a round peg sticking out from the landing gear (used to step into plane)
20) Replace wing root vents with vents that can be opened or closed when needed. 
21) Aerodynamic exhaust pipes angled back rather than sticking straight out the bottom of the plane
**22) Tight door and window seals
23) Gap seals where appropriate
24) Light prop optimized for cruise speed (or possibly ground adjustable)
25) Replace window catch on the bottom of the wing with lift gate type shocks used in SUV's and mini-vans.
26) Use small wheels
27) Wheel hub covers
28) Flush mounted door latches
*****29) BUILD LIGHT (no insulation, few avionics, spartan interior, minimal primer and paint, etc)
30) Find the best weight/HP ratio for the engine

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Hardware parts list (from AviPro QB list, modified with vendors I have used to acquire parts)

 
Item Vendor Qty Part Number Comment
         
Bearhawk Plans R & B Aircraft 1    
Brunton Flying Wires Private individual 1    
Wings Avi Pro 1    
Fuselage Avi Pro 1    
Main Tanks Avi Pro 1    
Aux Fuel Tanks Avi Pro 1    
Wing Struts w/fittings Avi Pro 1    
Wing Tips Avi Pro 1    
Firewall/boot cowl Avi Pro 1    
Cowling/nose bowl Avi Pro 1    
Flap return springs R & B Aircraft 1    
         
MISCELLANEOUS        
Freight from Avi Pro Avi Pro 1    
Wing crating Avi Pro 1    
         
LANDING GEAR        
Heim rod ends for landing gear Avi Pro 1    
Landing gear Avi Pro 1    
Shock struts Avi Pro 1    
Landing gear O-rings and snap rings R & B Aircraft 1    
Shock strut springs (set) Scott Special Tools 1 EH200-800 816-421-2444
Cleveland wheels and brakes kit   1 199-62  
Tires   2    
Axle nuts 1 1/2 x 16   2 MS21025-20  
Cotter pins 2" B & B Aircraft 4 MS24665-360  
Axle shims 1 7/8"   2    
AN5 Bolts, nuts, washers for brakes     MS21042 recommended Determined by brake type chosen
Jam nuts for rod ends        
Filler plug 1/8"NPT shock strut        
         
BRAKES        
Brake cylinders B & B Aircraft 4    
1/4" aluminum brake line   16    
AN fittings for 1/4" AL brake line        
flexible hi pressure hose        
fittings for hi pressure hose        
Adell clamps to secure hoses        
AN3 bolts/nuts for Adell clamps        
poly tube/fittings for supply side        
         
PULLEYS - ailerons        
Pulley - on wing tube support B & B Aircraft 2 MS24566-4B is 3.5”   
front spar pulleys   2 MS 20220-2  
fuselage side by wing strut   2 MS24566-3B  
         
PULLEYS - flaps &n